So we went and saw the big rock. To approach it, you can take a bus, tuk tuk, taxi or you can walk. Walking avoids a vehicle entrance fee but tacks on another 700 steps. We we're up for the challenge.
We survived the first 700 steps. Now to get to the top of the big rock we had another 700 steps to go. Much easier than climbing the side of it with a rope and gear.
The view from the top was spectacular. I don't quite know the history or the geology of the area but some hydroelectric dams have created this man-made lake consisting of dozens and dozens of small fingers reaching out around the entire area. A very unique area indeed!
The next day we left Guatapé and headed towards la mesa de los santos. We didn't want to take a bus back to Medellín and then take a 12 hour bus via the highway to Bucaramanga, the closest city available by bus. We wanted to try and go a less traveled route via smaller buses, hopping from pieblo to pueblo. Workers at the hostel said it would be possible. Well after 4 hours and having made it only 2 towns away, we were being told there were no buses going in the direction we wanted to go. It sounded like maybe we could find some in the morning, but at the rate we were going it seemed like it would've taken up to a week to get to our destination. At the many suggestions of the locals we grabbed a bigger bus back towards Medellín.
A super friendly local helped us out at the ticket station and was also on the same bus as us. We talked a bunch. He also bought me food at the next stop which was unexpectedly kind of him. He could tell we still wanted to find another route to our destination and he proceeded to speak with the bus driver. He eventually had the bus stop at a station, he got off and talked to someone working the ticket booth and found us a way to get to our destination the way we were hoping to go. Super friendly guy and one of a thousand examples of how amiable and helpful Colombians are.
The bus ride was overnight and we arrived in Bucaramanga at 3 in the morning. We waited until 5 to take a shared taxi to Piedecuesta. From there we took another bus to get to la mesa de los santos and asked to be dropped off at a climbers hostel. The hostel was fully booked so they told us the check the hostel next door. That was also booked except for exactly 2 beds left, but located in different dorms. So they set us up in a room at their Aunt's hostel down the road. For a similar fee, we had a studio with private kitchen and bathroom included. It was farther from the climbing but the peace and quiet was warmly welcomed.
We were too exhausted from all the bus rides to climb but we did some grocery shopping and went on a nice hike to the next town over, los santos.
The path was a camino built by the Spaniards many many centuries ago. A skillfully crafted path made from thousands of blocks of sandstone.
The view of los santos and the Chicamocha canyon in the distance.
The next day we rented a rope and went climbing. We had to pay an entrance fee and take a test to prove we knew how to climb and build anchors. I had never seen that before at an outdoor crag but we patiently did everything we were asked to do and we were finally free to climb some rocks.
The cliff was comprised of sandstone and had many really nice features. Camille and I hadn't climbed in over 5 months so we were a little concerned about our performance but we both seemed to do okay.
The climbing was really fun but the crag didn't have many routes within Camille's abilities and I didn't want to pay all the money to rent the rope and pay the entrance fees again so we figured 1 day was enough. Time to move on!
The woman at the climbers hostel recommended that we take a bus to the local teleferico to get down into the canyon to get to our next destination. She said it was a beautiful route and more direct. So we grabbed a bus in the morning and had them drop us off at the teleferico. What everyone failed to tell us was that it was closed on Mondays. The bus was already gone and the next bus wouldn't pass by for 3 hours. So we decided to walk and attempt to hitch hike to the next town to catch an earlier bus. Locals said it was 10km away and too far to walk. But we had nothing else to do.
Best part was that a couple stray dogs from the teleferico decided to join us on our adventure.
The one upside to this mishap was that we had some decent views during the walk.
The downside was that we had heavy backpacks and it was super hot out.
In total we had 2 different people pick us up and give us brief rides in the right direction, saving maybe 3km or so of walking. Every little bit helped!
We grabbed a bus back to Piedecuesta where we could take another bus down to San Gil. From there we took one more bus to get to Barichara, where we are now. Camille has been here before and wanted to return and show me the town. At some point it was voted the most beautiful village in Colombia. I can see why, it's beautiful, clean, quiet and super peaceful.
All of the roads are built out of sandstone blocks. All of the houses are white with terracotta roofs. It's surrounded by rolling green hills.
The view of the sunset from the top of the village was spectacular.
The next morning we hiked a camino to the nearby town of Guane, equally beautiful and peaceful.
This land is covered in fossils. Literally covered. The locals are using fossilized ammonites and turtle shells as construction materials, lining their sidewalks, landscaping and everything else with these beautiful artifacts.
The hostel at which we're staying is quite nice. It has a swimming pool and is full of fruit bearing trees.
Nice views of town too.
And kittens!
Tomorrow we leave for Guadalupe to see the Quebrada Las Gachas, a red sandstone lined river with massive potholes scattered about. Should be quite amazing.
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