Wednesday, May 31, 2017

To The Gorge!

On the previous episode of "Andrew doesn't know what he's doing" we found our protagonist aimlessly wandering a tourist-laden city with a twisted ankle and nowhere to call home. This was followed by a train ride to Marseilles where every hostel was booked and he had nowhere to call home. Dropping mad cash on a hotel room only revealed that the hotel was in a different city and the booking nonrefundable. Dropping more mad cash on a tram, train and taxi got him to his new and unwanted home for the night. Which brings us to episode 2.

The original plan was to stay 1 night in Marseille and then take a bus into Gorge du Verdon, amongst nature and friendly climbers and hikers. Now in Vitrolles, I learned that the bus doesn't run through this town and I need to get to Aix-En-Provence to catch it. Finding no bus available to get me there in time to catch it, I dropped mad cash on an Uber to get me there. With a half hour to spare I go to buy my ticket. This is when I learn that that particular bus doesn't run on Sundays. Cool beans. Guess I'm staying the night in Aix-En-Provence. Once again all of the hostels are booked. Screw it, I'm going to hobble to the outskirts of the city and sleep in the nearest patch of trees I can find. I hobble for about 50 minutes and find a nature trail that's unfortunately quite busy, but should do the trick. I stash my annoying 45 pound pack under some bushes and head back into the city. 

Fortunately Aix-En-Provence is big and interesting enough to keep me occupied for the 10 hours I need to kill before it's dark and late enough for me to sleep. It had lots of nice pedestrian only streets to wander about on. I switched back and forth from walking aimlessly to sitting and watching tourists do whatever it is that tourists do. 

At one point a marching band passed by playing old school flutes and drums. Apparently I caught the festival of the tambourine (that's my translation of a flier I spotted). 


I also found a really beautiful and massive church that provided shade and cool air. A perfect place to read and take a nap. 


Towards the end of the night I decided that a cold beer was justified and found a bar on the outskirts of town full of locals and a decent selection of brews. At first I received plenty of stares. But as the crowd dwindled and the remaining few got drunk, I found myself in an engaging conversation where I spoke little French and they spoke little English. It was a relief to finally have a conversation, especially with locals. And it turns out that the bartender's brother lives just outside of Boston. Neato. 

A few hours and maybe a few too many beers later I decided I needed to go find my bag and figure out where I was sleeping that night. Luckily the bag was still there and I made it 50 or so feet before I plopped down on some grass and fell asleep. 


The next morning I made the 50 minute hobble back to the bus station, ate some really bad muesli out of a used ziplock bag and boarded my bus. On the bus I met a couple that was backpacking together and discovered they both went to UMass Amherst. This marks the first time on this trip that someone knows of my hometown of Belchertown. Sweet as. 

And I finally made it to Gorge du Verdon!! And it's pretty decent. Here's the lake just before the gorge, as taken from my seat on the bus. 


I found a campground for the night and only paid 3€70 since I don't have a tent. Not bad at all. Day 1 was spent relaxing and picking up groceries. Day 2 started with breakfast and some sink laundry. I then found a good looking hike that should occupy most of my day. It was a nice hike that went halfway into the gorge and then traversed the northern hillside for about 8km.



After that it climbed out of the gorge and up into the hills above it. From there I was surrounded by pines, birch and elm trees, not too different from the landscapes I know from home. A warm comforting feeling swept through my soul. The best part was that in the entire 16km hike, I saw but 6 or 7 people. 


Upon returning to town I celebrated with a cold beer (they say hops are a natural anti-inflammatory, so it was more like a medicine for my ankle). 

I then had dinner and read until it was dark enough to fall asleep. Today I did more laundry and am now waiting for Camille to make her rendezvous and save me from my stupidity and inability to plan ahead. I think we'll stay in the gorge for a few days, do some climbing and hiking and then make our way to the Alps. 

Au revoir!

Saturday, May 27, 2017

Les Calanques

Okay, so. 

Camille dropped me off at the bus station so that she could go home for a family party and that I could continue my journey through France. I took a bus to Marseilles and then a train to Cassis, the nearest town to Les Calanques: a beautiful region of perfect white limestone cliffs against the fantastically blue shimmer of the Mediterranean. 

I was immediately reminded of how nice I had it while we were traveling in the van: freedom to go anywhere any time, a place to store our things and convenience to sleep in it (for free). My 50 pound pack suddenly felt like a burden far greater than it felt during pre-batmobile times. 

But make haste! We've got cliffs to explore!

I arrived in Cassis around 9:30 at night and began the arduous task of walking through town looking for a place to camp that was out of sight from anyone. Conveniently enough there was a patch of forest adjacent to the campground that was expensive and full. I setup my hammock and dozed off immediately. 

The next morning I walked through the campground in hopes of finding a climbing partner. What I found was mostly couples, or hikers, or people that didn't speak English (English isn't as common as I thought it'd be in France). 

So instead I just made my way towards a popular climbing spot: Calanque En Vau. 

Cassis is a really beautiful town that is unfortunately tarnished at the moment by a French holiday and thus a monstrous influx of tourists. 


The hike was really nice (barring the times that there was a slightly steep step on the trail resulting in complete gridlock as novice hikers panicked at the daunting task ahead of them). 

This is the view of the first Calanque (which apparently translates to Creek) on the trail. 


First sight of Calanque En Vau. 



When I first arrived at the beach at the end of the Calanque, I was sad that it was rather busy. 2 hours later it turned into this horrific scene. 


The view from slightly higher was a nice vacation from the vacationers. 


Either way, it was a beautiful setting and I had a nice time relaxing, reading and swimming. I didn't manage to find a climbing partner but I did some deep water soloing along the western wall of the creek which was fun. 

I decided that given the holiday as well as the difficult tasks of camping illegally and finding climbing partners that I would move on to greener pastures. Halfway through the hike back to Cassis I found a sweet place to camp so that I could rest my legs and get things done the next morning. 


On the hike out the next morning I managed to roll my ankle on a poorly placed curb (after 2 hours of scrambling over polished limestone). This made for a fun day of limping around everywhere. 

I took a train back to Marseilles in hopes of finding a hostel for the night where I could shower, wash some clothes and devise a plan going forward. On the usual sites I found absolutely​ zero hostel rooms available. Upon further googling I was excited to find one "affordable" hotel room left. I quickly booked it and hobbled my way over. 

Long story short I booked a hotel of the same name in a different city. And the booking was nonrefundable. Woohoo! Thus began an adventure of hopping on and off trams and trains, hobbling towards an airport to find a taxi and eventually making it to my overpriced, unnecessarily far away hotel room. 


Time to stop blogging and start planning. I think the Verdon Gorge might be in my near future. 

Wednesday, May 24, 2017

Une Baguette, S'il Vous Plaît

After dropping Greg off with a complete stranger, Camille and I hastily headed into the Pyrenees and crossed the French border. We were greeted with a much greener landscape but still surrounded with the familiar snow capped mountains we saw from the southern side. Also the bread and cheese is better. 

We also found some nice places to camp where we could wash our clothes in the river and have a fire at night!



Our first big destination in the Pyrenees was Gavarnie, for the views and potentially some climbing. We were greeted with some less than friendly weather and even some snow when we drove high enough into the mountains. 


After camping out in a ski resort parking lot (and cooking in the van due to 0°C temps) we were greeted the next day with a beautiful sunny sky. Unfortunately however our goal of hiking Cirque de Gavarnie was shut down when we found out the trail was closed due to snow and avalanche danger. 

Instead we headed to Lac de Gloriettes for a lovely hike to basically the Spain border (Cirque d'Estaubé). T'was nice indeed. 




We then made a stop at Camille's Aunt's house. It was nice having a hot shower and a real bed. The next day her aunt and uncle showed us a local climbing​ spot which turned out to be super fun. I'm sure going to miss climbing on European limestone. 



Our beautiful drawing thanking her aunt and uncle. 


Next stop was the Ariège region for more climbing. Woo!

On the leftmost mountain in this photo was our goal. A 350 meter, 7 pitch 6a. It was a great adventure: A 2 hour approach, 6 hour climb, 1.5 hour descent (stuck and tangled ropes didn't help) and then an hour hike back. We were exhausted but very satisfied... Almost too tired to enjoy some bread wine and cheese... Almost. 






Today was a rest day. We're currently in Foix exploring the city. Tomorrow Camille drops me off at a bus station. She heads back to her parents place for a family party and I head to Les Calanques for some big scary and beautiful climbing in the mountains. Soon soon she'll meet back up with me either in Les Calanques or somewhere else along the road!

Thursday, May 18, 2017

Viva España

Been plenty busy exploring Spain, obviomente. We spent 1 night in Barcelona. Found a craft beer bar with tons of awesome beers! 


Saw some of the sights of Barcelona the next day. Gaudi's Cathedral was incredible. 



Then we headed to Montserrat for climbing, camping, hiking and via ferratas. Montserrat is a beautiful park a couple hours outside of Barcelona. There's a large monestary on top with smaller ones speckled all over the mountains. 




We found a really nice spot to park and camp during our stay in Montserrat. Watching the sunset every night was a nice treat. 



One day we did a via ferrata in the park. It was the first via ferrata for both Greg and I. It was super fun! Right in between hiking and climbing, we gained a lot of elevation while clipping into fixed lines and climbing iron ladders. 





We also did a multipitch climb which got us to the top of this spire. Being the dumb tourists that we are, we thought we'd be okay with t-shirts and shorts. Then we found ourselves in the shade dealing with super strong gusts of wind, wishing we had more clothing on. Regardless, we had an awesome time and the view from the top was spectacular. 


After leaving Montserrat, this was our bathing spot during one of our rest days. 


Near a small town by the name of Camarasa we found some fun climbing that couldn't be any closer to the road. 


We then spent a few days in Parque Sierra de Guara. Having no expectations, my mind was completely blown. It is absolutely​ a climbing Mecca, with an endless number of limestone caves situated in a beautiful canyon. 





Today we're dropping Greg off in Huesca where he'll be heading back to Barcelona and eventually back home. In the next week Camille and I will head north and eventually cross into France via the Pyrenees. 

Monday, May 8, 2017

Granada to Barcelona

After wonderful El Chorro we headed to Granada. It's a beautiful city with lots of history and culture, especially that of Arabic influence. 

Camille was very excited to show me the Alambra, a gorgeous Arabic palace situated in the hills above Granada. Unfortunately tickets were sold out for the day. We still walked around the parts that were free and got a taste of what lay beyond the patrolled gates. 



We camped the first night in the upper part of Granada. The next 2 nights we camped in Monachil, a beautiful​ little town outside of the city. And it was conveniently next to some nice climbing! We spent a couple days climbing and enjoying the peace outside of the city. We even had a French couple join us whom we met in El Chorro. 


Our "camping" spot had a nice view. 


Today we made the long drive to Barcelona to pick up Greg from the airport and explore the city.  Our hostel is right near Spain's very own "Arc de Triomf".