To The Top Of The Chief!

View from the top of Rock On. Already really great exposure.

Finishing up pitch 14.

The summit!

Mark and I ganged up to climb 15 pitches to get to the top of The Chief. We linked up Rock On [5.10a, 5 pitches] with Ultimate Everything [5.10b, 10 pitches]. Awesome climbing the whole way up and the view from the top was exquisite!

2 Days later we climbed another route on the chief, Millennium Falcon [5.11b, 14 pitches]. Only 4 of the 14 pitches were easier than 5.10. It was certainly the most challenging multi-pitch climb I've attempted so far. After making it through the first 13 pitches we reached the final pitch, 5.11b slab, and it was my turn to lead. It was 55 meters of slab climbing with only 8 bolts protecting it. The only holds were polished crystals leading up a dyke. I fell a few times before finally making it to the 7th bolt. The crux was about 12 feet up and right from this bolt and I must have taken 15 whippers, the biggest one being after pulling through the crux and falling during a mantel onto a small ledge. The 30 foot diagonal fall on slab was pretty intense, to say the least. With the setting sun, I was determined to make it through this pitch. I finally got through the crux and stuck the mantel. To my dismay, the next section wasn't easy and the final bolt was still 15 feet away. A 50 foot diagonal fall on slab and waning light was enough to force me to back down. Voluntarily dropping off the ledge and falling onto the last bolt was a wee bit spooky. Having to bail 20 feet from the summit after 8 hours of climbing was tough to deal with, but better than risking serious injury in a country that may or may not take my "socialist Obamacare" health insurance. A wonderful test of physical endurance and mental capacity. I loved the experience but I don't plan on tackling the climb ever again. Rest day today for sure!